Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum

I picked up my Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum from Sephora at the beginning of my Tretinoin transition. During this time my skin was extremely sensitive and my regular vitamin C serums were stinging my skin. Since this formulation made use of a vitamin c derivative I thought it may be a gentler option for use during my skin’s transition period.

The serum was just what I like in terms of consistency – water-based, lightweight, easily absorbed and did not leave a tacky residue.

After initial application the product does make the skin look luminous, but I feel that this is attributed to the mica. The orange tint of the formulation is normal, but as with all vitamin c serums – keep an eye out for colour changes.

The product played well with all my other skincare and make up.

As with most Ole Henriksen formulations, this is fragranced. It has a gentle citrus scent to it that I found rather enjoyable, but if you are sensitive to fragrance components I would suggest going through the ingredients list before purchase.

This serum did exactly what I anticipated it would do and I would say it is a great option for those with vitamin c sensitivities or beginners who are looking for something gentle.

I really enjoyed using this serum during the time that I need something less harsh, but it is not something I would keep on my shelf long term.

The product component is airtight and contains 30ml. It has a shelf life of 12 months, but I easily used mine up in about 2 months.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I apply this serum as part of my morning routine directly after my toner. In my case, I required two pumps to cover my face, neck, and chest. I like to give my vitamin C serums time to absorb before moving on to the next step of my routine. It is very important to remember your sunscreen when using vitamin C in your routine.

THE BRAND

Ole Hendriksen has been around for about 40 years and has a history in the spa world. The aim of the brand is to provide the “Ole Glow”.

The products are cruelty free and they do provide vegan options.

INGREDIENTS

  • Aqua/Water/Eau
  • 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable derivative form of vitamin c.
  • Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate functions as a non-aqueous skin-softening agent and thickener.
  • Gluconolactone is a PHA, which is a very mild chemical exfoliant.
  • Cetearyl Olivate functions as an emulsifier and slip agent or texture enhancer.
  • Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier.
  • Triethyl Citrate is a perfuming agent.
  • Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract is an antioxidant.
  • Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is used as an emollient.
  • Potassium Hydroxide is an alkaline ingredient used to balance the PH of a product.
  • Betaine balances the skin’s hydration.
  • Panthenol is a humectant alcohol. This ingredient also promotes wound healing.
  • Phenoxyethanol is a preservative.
  • Hydroxyacetophenone works as a preservative booster, as well as an antioxidant and soothing agent. 
  • Aminomethyl Propanol is an alkaline material that is used to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to the right value. 
  • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is used as a texture enhancer.
  • Gluconic Acid is a polyhydroxy acid which is a special type of AHA that strengthens the skin barrier function and helps fight the signs of ageing without irritation.
  • Tocopherol is Vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent.
  • Succinoglycan is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Phytic Acid has the main function of neutralizing metal ions but also has some antioxidant benefits.
  • Mica makes a product shine.
  • Sodium Metabisulfite is a preservative with antioxidant benefits.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Hyaluronic Acid is a skin-identical conditioning agent that bonds water to it.
  • Caramel is a natural colouring ingredient.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is the salt form of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients of the liquorice plant. It is used for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Sodium Polyacrylate is a handy multi-tasker that thickens up water-based formulas and also has some emulsifying and emulsion stabilizing properties. It has strong water-binding properties.
  • Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a preservative that is great at preventing discolouration or other types of oxidative degradation.
  • Sodium Phytate is a preservative.
  • Rosa Canina Fruit Extract is an antioxidant skin-conditioning agent.
  • Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract is a good source of vitamin C as well as various B vitamins, vitamin E, lycopene, phytosterols, and numerous phenolic compounds that provide antioxidant benefit.
  • Ascorbic Acid is a form of vitamin C. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing agent that can improve the appearance of signs of ageing.
  • Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract is an antioxidant and skin-softening agent.
  • Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a preservative.
  • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) is a physical sunscreen.
  • Yellow 5 (Ci 19140) is a colourant.
  • Red 4 (Ci 14700) is a colourant.

INGREDIENTS TO NOTE

  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil has antioxidant properties but is sensitizing. I, however, have had no reaction to it in this formulation.
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil has antioxidant benefits but can be sensitizing.
  • Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract is said to be a natural skin brightener, but at the same time, it is a known skin sensitizer. In formulations like this, it does not cause me any great concern.
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract has antioxidant properties but is sensitizing.
  • Limonene is comprised of many natural fragrant ingredients. This ingredient can cause sensitivity. Limonene has antioxidant benefits and skin-penetrating benefits, but can be volatile. As it is the last ingredient it does not concern me.
  • Linalool is a fragrant component of lavender and coriander. It can be a strong skin sensitizer. It does not bother me in this formulation as it is the second last ingredient.
  • Citral is a possibly sensitizing fragrant component.

CLOSING

I purchased Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum from Sephora in Doha, Qatar.

This is a very gentle vitamin C serum and it served me well during my Tretinoin transition, unfortunately, my skin tends to respond better to something a little stronger. So now that we have normalized I am moving back to my more traditional vitamin C serums.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

****I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum

I had high hopes for the Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum, and I think it would have brilliant if my skin had not been so sensitive to the glycolic acid on a daily basis.

The product comes in a 30ml container and has a shelf life of 12 months. I used mine up in about 3 months with use on every second day.

My sweet spot in vitamin c serums is 15% ascorbic/l-ascorbic acid in a water based formula. What I didn’t account for in this particular formulation is the daily dose of glycolic acid.

My skin does not like to be exfoliated daily and since glycolic was listed second on the ingredient list I am assuming the high concentration sensitized my skin.

If I attempted to use this daily my skin would burn and turn red. It was tolerable when used every second day, but I still experienced stinging and sensitivity.

Apart from this the formulation absorbed well into the skin, was not tacky and played well when layered with my other products.

The product is lightweight with a slight pale yellow tint to it. It has a herby scent to it which I rather enjoyed.

I will not be repurchasing this product due to my sensitivity issues, but I do believe it to be a top notch vitamin c serum.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I apply this serum as part of my morning routine directly after my toner. In my case, I required two pumps to cover my face, neck, and chest. I like to give my vitamin C serums time to absorb before moving on to the next step of my routine. It is very important to remember your sunscreen when using vitamin C in your routine.

THE BRAND

“Inspired by Dr. Murad’s lifelong commitment to science-backed wellness, we create products and experiences not only for healthier skin, but for happier lives. At Murad, we’re committed to conquering the global health epidemic of stress. “Stress less. Be imperfect. Live longer.”—Dr. Howard Murad, Founder.

Murad is creualty-free.

Not all of Murad’s products are vegan, but they do carry some vegan offerings.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water/Aqua/Eau
  • Glycolic Acid is an exfoliant and an AHA. This is a favourite ingredient of mine for my oily, acne-prone skin.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent.
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is derived from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s considered an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient.
  • Dimethicone is a gentle emollient.
  • Sodium Hydroxide is a PH balancer.
  • HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer provides excellent slip, fluidity and overall skin feel and gives soft focus and wrinkle correction to the formula. It also has strong de-tackifying and anti-caking properties. 
  • Diisopropyl Sebacate works primarily as a handy helper ingredient in sunscreen formulas. It helps to create high-SPF formulas with reduced concentrations of UV-filters and it also helps to create cosmetically elegant formulas. It absorbs rapidly, makes the product easily spreadable and reduces greasiness coming from the oil-soluble sunscreen agents.
  • C13-16 Isoparaffin is a solvent.
  • Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is used to stabilize and thicken water-based products.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide is an ingredient that can aid in the absorption of active ingredients.
  • Ascorbic Acid is a form of vitamin C. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing agent that can improve the appearance of signs of ageing.
  • Urea is a natural moisturizing factor.
  • Yeast Amino Acids are moisturizing with humectant properties.
  • Trehalose works as a humectant and moisturizer.
  • Inositol may have water-binding properties for the skin. 
  • Taurine is a buffering agent.
  • Betaine balances the skin’s hydration.
  • Glutathione is a powerful, non-enzymatic antioxidant that naturally occurs in the skin where it serves to help defend it against the visible effects of environmental damage. It also offers skin-restoring and brightening benefits.
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
  • Cetearyl Isononanoate is an emollient. It is yellowish in colour.
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is an emulsifier that also functions as a thickening agent.
  • Oleyl Alcohol is an emollient.
  • Silica is used as an absorbent powder and thickening agent.
  • Hexylresorcinol is an antimicrobial.
  • Polysilicone-11 functions as a film-forming agent.
  • Triheptanoin is a light, oily liquid that works as a very high spreadability and low viscosity emollient making the skin nice and smooth.
  • Polyisobutene creates tackiness in formulations.
  • Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture is a skin-protecting agent.
  • Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower is an antioxidant.
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • Mica makes a product shine.
  • Hexylene Glycol is used to thin out formulations.
  • Sodium Surfactin is a surfactant.
  • Xymenynic Acid is an emollient.
  • Tocopheryl Acetate is Vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant.
  • PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether is an emulsifying agent.
  • Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract is an antioxidant ingredient.
  • Sorbitol is a humectant sugar. It is also a prebiotic helping to keep the skin’s bioderm balanced.
  • Tin Oxide is used to give a multi-colour effect to products.
  • Xanthan Gum is a stabilizer and texture enhancer.
  • T-Butyl Alcohol is a solvent.
  • Chlorella Vulgaris Extract is an alga extract with skin-conditioning properties.
  • Decyl Glucoside is a vegetable-derived cleansing agent.
  • Citric Acid is a PH adjuster.
  • Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient. It has antimicrobial benefits and improves the effect of preservatives.
  • Phenoxyethanol is a preservative.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin is a skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol.
  • Sodium Benzoate is a preservative.
  • Potassium Sorbate is a preservative.
  • Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) is a physical sunscreen.

INGREDIENTS TO NOTE

  • Zanthoxylum Bungeanum Fruit Extract is a pepper extract that has possible skin-conditioning capabilities, but can also be sensitizing.
  • Gold claims to be helpful to the skin, but has been found to be sensitizing.

CLOSING

I purchased Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum from Galeries Lafayette in Doha, Qatar.

While I feel this serum could be effective it was just too much for my skin. I will not repurchase this unless there is no other alternative.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

****I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Krave Great Barrier Relief

The Krave Great Barrier Relief has been a lifesaver for my skin. I have recently transitioned to 0.5% Tretinoin and the dry skin phobia was eating me alive. With this serum on hand, I had nothing to fear.

Before incorporating this product my skin was sensitized and dry as the Namib, but since I have started using it my skin no longer burns and flushes and the dry patches are greatly diminished.

To date this has played well with all my other products. It absorbs well into the skin and does not leave a tacky or greasy feeling.

There is a distinct scent to this product that comes from the Tamanu Oil. This smell does seem to offend some people, but I rather like it.

I purchased this for QR165 which is more expensive than buying directly from the brand website. Please keep in mind that Krave does not ship to Qatar so after third party shipping costs, import duties and a bit of a wait I feel that QR165 is a more than fair price for this essential product.

This product can never leave my shelf – I might actually die. I would highly recommend this product for all skin types.

The packaging is 45ml and the product has a shelf life of 12 months. I wish this came in a bigger size, I have been using it for less than a month and I am already halfway through it.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

This little bottle of magic is part of both my morning and evening routines.

For the mornings this is applied before my moisturizer.

I layer this creamy serum after my Tretinoin and before my evening moisturizer.

Two pumps is plenty to cover my face and neck area.

THE BRAND

Always vegan, cruelty-free and free of fragrances, essential oils, and colorants.

I have the utmost trust in the founder, Liah Yoo. She has been excellent and getting consumer input into her products and being transparent in the packaging, product and formulation process.

The foundation of the brand is to “Press Reset” and give your skin a simple, effective routine in order to heal itself.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water
  • Propanediol can enhance the absorption of ingredients and has hydrating properties.
  • Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil (10%) is believed to provide healing and regenerative benefits.
  • Dipropylene Glycol is a texture enhancer that has some moisturizing abilities.
  • Niacinamide has the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface. 
  • Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is full of nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids: it’s a high linoleic acid oil (70%) and has only smaller amounts of oleic acid (11%) (this might be great for acne-prone skin). It also contains antioxidant vitamin E (44mg/100g alpha-tocopherol).
  • Cetearyl Olivate functions as an emulsifier and slip agent or texture enhancer.
  • Polysorbate 60 is an emulsifier, which means it helps oil and water to mix together.
  • Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is known for its high omega fatty acid content (linoleic acid – 51%, linolenic acid – 19% and oleic acid – 20%) and skin-regenerative properties. 
  • Glyceryl Oleate is used as an emollient, surfactant and emulsifier.
  • Sorbitan Olivate is an emulsifier.
  • Sorbitan Oleate is an emulsifier.
  • Octyldodecanol is a texture enhancer.
  • Glycerin is a pretty common ingredient in skincare. Its star attributes are being a humectant, an emollient, and an occlusive.
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Squalane is a moisturizing antioxidant.
  • Serine is a skin-condition agent.
  • Acetyl Glutamine is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Glycine is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent. It also has humectant properties.
  • Ceramide NP is a naturally occurring lipid that is one of the major components of the outer layer of the skin.
  • Oleic Acid serves as an emulsifier or emulsion stabilizer in small amounts in regular cosmetic products. It is also quite well researched and is used in the pharmaceutical industry as a penetration enhancer.
  • Sodium PCA is a moisturizing humectant.
  • Glycosyl Trehalose is an emulsion stabilizing and film-forming ingredient.
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is derived from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s considered an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient.
  • Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols is an emollient skin-conditioning agent.
  • Saccharide Isomerate is an emollient.
  • Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour has the same skin soothing, skin protecting and antioxidant benefits.
  • Disodium Phosphate is a buffering agent.
  • Sodium Phosphate is a buffering agent.
  • Tocopheryl Acetate is Vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant.
  • Coco-Caprylate/Caprate functions both as a stabilizing agent and a lightweight emollient.
  • Lactic Acid is an AHA chemical exfoliant. It can help to hydrate and even out skin tone.
  • Xanthan Gum is a stabilizer and texture enhancer.
  • Urea is a natural moisturizing factor.
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is an emulsifier that also functions as a thickening agent.
  • Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables is an emollient.
  • Magnesium Chloride is a thickening agent.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol is a preservative.
  • Hydroxyacetophenone works as a preservative booster, as well as an antioxidant and soothing agent. 
  • Glyceryl Caprylate is an emollient.
  • Pentylene Glycol is a low molecular weight humectant, emollient and antimicrobial moisturizer.
  • Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient. It has antimicrobial benefits and improves the effect of preservatives.
  • Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that prevents certain ingredients from binding with others.

CLOSING

I purchased my Krave Great Barrier Relief from Beauty Booth Qatar.

This has become a ride or die product for me. It was love at first use and has a very special place in my heart.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

****I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum

I really wanted the Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum to work for me, but instead it broke me out.

The breakout was not the worst I have ever had, just little white pustules dotted all over my face. After this experience I decided to give it a try on my neck and chest and this resulted in an itchy rash.

There is definitely something in this formulation that does not play well with my skin.

The product contains 22g of each serum and has a shelf life of 12 months.

I did not notice any scent to this product (despite a fair amount of fragrant ingredients) and it absorbed well into the skin without leaving a tacky feeling.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I applied this product as part of my evening routine.

After toning a dispensed two pumps of each serum into my hands, rubbed together and patted into my skin.

This was followed up with an occlusive moisturizer.

THE BRAND

Neogen has always been one of my favorite Korean skincare brands. Neogen’s brand promise is to deliver skin solutions with real results for every skin concern.

The brand is cruelty free with a wide range of vegan products, they are however not completely vegan.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water
  • Triethylhexanoinfunctions as a solvent, occlusive agent and skin-conditioning emollient.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol is a preservative.
  • Propanediol can enhance the absorption of ingredients and has hydrating properties.
  • Niacinamide has the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface. 
  • Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is a nonoily emollient.
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is derived from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s considered an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient.
  • Coco-Caprylate/Caprate functions both as a stabilizing agent and a lightweight emollient.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a gentle cleansing agent that does not leave the skin dry or tight. It’s also used as a co-emulsifier or solubilizer.
  • Carbomer is a texture enhancer used mainly in gel formulations.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin is a skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol.
  • Tromethamine is a PH balancer.
  • Adenosine is a yeast-based skin-conditioning ingredient that has proven anti-wrinkle benefits.
  • Xanthan Gum is a stabilizer and texture enhancer.
  • Coptis Japonica Extract is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Betaine balances the skin’s hydration.
  • Allantoin is a skin-soothing and skin-conditioning agent. This is a good ingredient for both sensitive and oily skin types.
  • Trehalose works as a humectant and moisturizer.
  • Panthenol is a humectant alcohol. This ingredient also promotes wound healing.
  • Dextrin is used as an adhesive. For skin, it can have water-binding properties.
  • Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract is an emollient.
  • Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate(10ppm) is a non-living probiotic ingredient. It has been shown to have a potent soothing effect that in turn strengthens the skin’s ability to defend itself from aggressors.
  • Isopentyldiol is a humectant liquid that makes your skin nice and smooth and gives a dry, non-tacky skin feel. It also has a great instant and some longer-lasting moisturizing effect and works in synergy with fellow moisturizer, sorbitol. 
  • Hydrolyzed Collagen works as a moisturizer and humectant.
  • Squalane is a moisturizing antioxidant.
  • Lactic Acid is an AHA chemical exfoliant. It can help to hydrate and even out skin tone.
  • Polydecene is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Sodium PCA is a moisturizing humectant.
  • Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid. Used primarily as a hydrating and buffering agent.
  • Arginine is an amino acid considered to be essential to human development. It has antioxidant properties.
  • Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil is an antioxidant emollient that is great for dry skin. It has a low potential for sensitivity.
  • Aspartic Acid is a skin-replenishing amino acid.
  • Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • PCA serves as a humectant and is part of the natural moisturizing factor.
  • Ceramide 3 contributes towards a healthy skin barrier and good skin hydration.
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin is an emollient.
  • Acacia Senegal Gum is a herb that can have skin-soothing properties but is used primarily as a thickening agent.
  • Phospholipids are a type of lipid that is a component of the cell’s membrane. It is used as an emollient.
  • Agar is a viscosity controlling agent.
  • Glycine is a pretty common ingredient in skincare. Its star attributes are being a humectant, an emollient, and an occlusive.
  • Alanine is a skin-conditioning amino acid.
  • Royal Jelly Extract is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Propolis Extract has skin-soothing and antioxidant benefits.
  • Artemisia Capillaris Extract is possibly an anti-inflammatory agent.
  • Serine is a skin-condition agent.
  • Valine is a skin-replenishing amino acid.
  • Guaiazulene is used for its antimicrobial benefits. It is also used as a perfume and a pigment.
  • Cholesterol helps to maintain the skins healthy feel. It is also a water-binding agent.
  • Isoleucine is a skin-replenishing amino acid.
  • Threonine is a skin-replenishing amino acid.
  • Proline is a skin-replenishing amino acid.
  • Tocopheryl Acetate is Vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant.
  • Phenylalanine is a skin-replenishing amino acid.
  • Histidine is a skin-conditioning amino acid.
  • Ceramide 2 is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Ceramide 4 is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Bifida Ferment Lysate(0.98ppb) is a probiotic ingredient. It can help reactive skin become less sensitive to environmental aggressors via strengthening its microbiome.
  • Hyaluronic Acid functions as a superior skin-replenishing ingredient. It has restorative abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, soothe, and defend against moisture loss.
  • Ceramide 1 is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Ceramide 6 II is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment(0.28ppb) is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent.
  • Phytosterols are naturally occurring molecules that are good for replenishing a restoring the skin.
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a humectant with wound healing properties.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it. This ingredient also promotes wound healing.
  • Copper Tripeptide-1 naturally occurs in certain bodily fluids. It has some wound healing abilities and stimulates the production of several skin-identical ingredients. In addition to this, it also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a moisturizing agent with anti-wrinkle benefits. It claims to have a “Botox-like” effect as it targets wrinkles.
  • Tripeptide-1 works with copper in the skin to visibly repair substances that have begun to deteriorate due to age and sun exposure. It can help “teach” damaged areas how to rebuild so skin looks and feels smoother and firmer.
  • Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 works by reducing the production of the signal molecule inteleukin-6 (IL-6) which promotes inflammation in the skin. Less inflammation means slower degradation of important things (like collagen) that results in younger-looking skin for a longer time. 
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen the skin’s underlying supportive elements. It’s categorized as a messenger peptide because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically in regard to visibly fading signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture.
  • Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 can reduce fine lines, wrinkles and improve skin texture significantly.
  • Hexapeptide-9 is an anti-ageing peptide that can visibly reduce the length and depth of wrinkles.
  • Tripeptide-2 is another restorative amino-acid complex.
  • Nonapeptide-1 is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Hexapeptide-11 is a skin-conditioning agent.

INGREDIENTS TO NOTE

  • Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil does have some antimicrobial benefits, but it is also a fragrance ingredient and can be skin sensitizing. In this formulation, I do not notice any scent and I am not reactive to it. That being said, I would rather not have it included in the formula.
  • Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil is a volatile fruit oil. It is also a photo-sensitizer. I, personally do not have a sensitivity to this (that I know of).
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil has antioxidant properties but is sensitizing.
  • Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil is used mainly as a fragrancing component.
  • Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil has antioxidant benefits for the skin and has shown to have a calming effect on the skin. This ingredient can be sensitizing.
  • Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil is a skin-conditioning agent, but it is also sensitizing.
  • Limonene is comprised of many natural fragrant ingredients. This ingredient can cause sensitivity. Limonene has antioxidant benefits and skin-penetrating benefits, but can be volatile. To date, this ingredient has not caused me any concern, but get to know how your skin reacts to it.
  • Linalool is a fragrant component of lavender and coriander. It can be a strong skin sensitizer.

CLOSING

I purchased my Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum from YesStyle.

Please feel free to use my rewards code to get a little extra off your purchase.

Unfortunately, due to my reaction, I will not be able to continue using this product nor will I be repurchasing it.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

****I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment

For year’s I have been looking for an alternative to my beloved Zo Skin Health Retinol Skin Brightener, and I have now found it in the Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment.

As with all Paula’s Choice products, this is fragrance-free. The lotion-like texture is just what I look for in a Retinol treatment. It absorbs well and plays well with the other product in my routine.

I have been using Retinol for many years and have built up a decent tolerance. That being said I did experience some peeling with this product. This problem was solved by simply upping the hydrating and moisturizing products before and after application.

Beginner Retinol users may not want to start off with this particular product – work your way up to it.

To date I still can not apply Retinol to my neck and chest. This, like all the others, caused severe irritation in these areas.

If you are an experienced Retinol user I would highly recommend this product.

I have now graduated to Tretinoin, but if I ever cycle back to retinol then this is high on the list.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

After cleansing I apply a hyaluronic acid serum followed by a double layer of hydrating toner.

Once my skin is dry I apply the retinol. I give this a minute to marinate and then add a barrier repair serum.

The routine is topped off with a thick moisturizer and a Squalene oil.

Retinol should only ever be used as part of an evening routine as it does make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

I use Retinol every night except for my BHA evenings.

THE BRAND

Paula’s Choice is known for their well researched, fragrance-free formulations.

This brand is cruelty-free which is always welcome.

I love that this brand offers my channels to offer customer communication and assistance. Ingredient directories, consultation services, in-depth product descriptions etc.

Brand’s like this are easy to get behind.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water (Aqua)
  • Dimethicone is a gentle emollient.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent. It also has humectant properties.
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • Isononyl Isononanoate is an emollient skin-conditioning agent.
  • Castor Isostearate Succinate is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Glyceryl Stearate is an emollient emulsifier.
  • C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an emollient and texture enhancer.
  • Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used as a stabilizing and suspending agent or as a thickener. 
  • PEG-33 is a humectant and stabilizer.
  • Polysorbate 20 is a surfactant and emulsifying agent.
  • Behenyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol used as an emulsifier.
  • PEG-100 Stearate is an emollient and cleansing agent.
  • Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is an emollient.
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a texturizing powder that’s used as a texture enhancer and soft-focus agent.
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
  • Retinol is a natural form of vitamin A, which works by reducing the appearance of wrinkles and strengthening the thickness and elasticity of the skin.
  • Ceramide NG is found naturally in the skin. They play an important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. 
  • Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 works by reducing the production of the signal molecule, inteleukin-6 (IL-6) which promotes inflammation in the skin and less inflammation means slower degradation of important things (like collagen) that results in younger-looking skin for a longer time. 
  • Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 claims to improve firmness and skin tone.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is the salt form of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients of the liquorice plant. It is used for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is a plant extract with skin-soothing properties and possible benefits for the evening out of skin tone.
  • Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is an antioxidant with skin-soothing and skin-protecting benefits.
  • Arctium Lappa Root Extract has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It also has some anti-fungal and seborrhea regulation magic powers that make the ingredient especially useful for greasy and flaky skin and scalp. 
  • Salix Alba Bark Extract is an antioxidant.
  • Glycine Soja Sterols is an emollient skin-conditioning agent.
  • Lecithin is a water binding emollient.
  • Allantoin is a skin-soothing and skin-conditioning agent. This is a good ingredient for both sensitive and oily skin types.
  • Tocopheryl Acetate is Vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant.
  • Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a skin-conditioning humectant.
  • Sorbitan Laurate is an emulsifier.
  • Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a soothing dipeptide based molecule that functions as a “messenger of tranquillity and muscle relaxation”.
  • Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that prevents certain ingredients from binding with others.
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose is a texture enhancer.
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen the skin’s underlying supportive elements. It’s categorized as a messenger peptide because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically in regard to visibly fading signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture.
  • Sodium Hydroxide is a PH balancer.
  • Tribehenin is an emollient thickening agent.
  • Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient. It has antimicrobial benefits and improves the effect of preservatives.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin is a skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol.
  • Pentylene Glycol is a low molecular weight humectant, emollient and antimicrobial moisturizer.
  • PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides are an emulsifying and skin-replenishing agent.
  • PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer is a film-forming agent.
  • PEG-10 Phytosterol is a cleansing agent and emollient.
  • PEG-8 Dimethicone is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • PEG-14 (texture enhancer)
  • Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is a thickening and stabilizing agent.
  • Arachidyl Glucoside is a mild surfactant and emulsifying agent.
  • Arachidyl Alcohol is a waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient.
  • Sclerotium Gum is a thickening and gelling agent.
  • Carbomer is a texture enhancer used mainly in gel formulations.
  • Phenoxyethanol is a preservative.
  • Benzoic Acid is a preservative.

CLOSING

I purchased my Paula’s Choice 1% Retinal Treatment from Paula’s Choice.

I enjoyed using this retinol and if I transition off of Tretinoin I will be making use of this again.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

**I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Vichy Liftactiv Vitamin C Brightening Skin Corrector

The Vichy Liftactiv Vitamin C Brightening Skin Corrector was a good little vitamin c serum. What put me off is the small amount of product for the higher price tag and the fact that it only has a 1-month shelf life.

I started using this product on 27 December 2020 and fished it about a week before the expiry date.

The bottle is 10ml in size and the product is dark in colour and has a metallic scent to it.

The product absorbed well into the skin and did not leave a noticeable residue. As with most vitamin c serums I would give this time to absorb before moving on to the next step as it can emulsify.

I did not experience any irritation with the use of this serum, but once again it did not diminish the appearance of my more stubborn pigmentation marks.

This formulation is 15% ascorbic acid (water based), which is just what my oily skin likes.

If you are looking for an easily accessible vitamin c serum that does the job of evening out skin tone and giving you a healthy glow then this is a good option. It is a little too pricy for though at QAR 225 for 10 ml vs QAR179 for the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster which is 20 ml.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I apply this serum as part of my morning routine directly after my toner. IN my case I required a full dropper to cover my face, neck, and chest. I like to give my vitamin C serums time to absorb before moving on to the next step of my routine. It is very important to remember your sunscreen when using vitamin C in your routine.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water
  • Ascorbic Acid is a form of vitamin C. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing agent that can improve the appearance of signs of aging.
  • Dipropylene Glycol is a texture enhancer that has some moisturizing abilities.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent.
  • Laureth-23 is an emulsifier that is mostly water soluble.
  • Sodium Hydroxide is a PH balancer.
  • Tocopherol is basically vitamin E. Which is a well known antioxidant. This ingredient does have some comedogenic properties. In other formulations, I have broken out from this, but in this product, I have had no reaction.
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a humectant with wound healing properties.
  • Pinus Pinaster Bark/Bud Extract is an antimicrobial antioxidant.

INGREDIENTS TO NOTE

  • Alcohol Denat is often used as a delivery agent in cosmetic formulations. It can at times be drying, but I do not find that to be the case in this formulation.
  • Neohesperidin Dihydrochalone is a perfuming agent.

CLOSING

I purchased my Vichy Liftactiv Vitamin C Brightening Skin Corrector from Kulud Pharmacy.

In a pinch a would use this serum again, but there are more affordable products available that offer the same experience and results.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

**I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paul’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster

I fully enjoyed my experience with the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster. I was initially concerned that I would not use it up before the 3 month shelf life has expired, but it worked out almost exactly to the 3 month mark when used daily.

The texture of this serum is great for my oily skin and absorbs well without leaving a residue. It can turn milky when it hasn’t received enough time to absorb before the next product is layered.

The serum does have a very pale yellow/orange tint to it, but this is normal.

There is no fragrance contained in this product and I did not detect any offensive odors during use.

During my use of this product, I did not experience any irritation and while it did not clear up my two stubborn pigmentation spots it did leave my skin feeling healthy and glowy.

The 15% water-based vitamin c solutions seem to be the sweet spot for my skin. I could happily continue to repurchase this product.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I apply this serum as part of my morning routine directly after my toner. IN my case I required a full dropper to cover my face, neck, and chest. I like to give my vitamin C serums time to absorb before moving on to the next step of my routine. It is very important to remember your sunscreen when using vitamin C in your routine.

While this serum can be mixed in with your moisturizer. I chose to use it as a serum.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water (Aqua)
  • Ascorbic Acid is a form of vitamin C. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing agent that can improve the appearance of signs of aging.
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • Ethoxydiglycol is used mainly as a solvent.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent.
  • PPG-26-Buteth-26 is a conditioning agent, surfactant, and emulsifier.
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emollient.
  • Pentylene Glycol is a low molecular weight humectant, emollient and antimicrobial moisturizer.
  • Tocopherol is basically vitamin E. Which is a well known antioxidant. This ingredient does have some comedogenic properties. In other formulations, I have broken out from this, but in this product, I have had no reaction.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate is a tripeptide that can supposedly reactivate the natural desquamation process of the skin. Better desquamation means better skin quality with fewer irregularities and imperfections and in general fewer signs of aging. It also speeds up cell renewal that results in fresh, glowing skin, it intensely hydrates, refines skin texture, and reduces wrinkle depth.
  • Lecithin is an emollient and water-binding ingredient but it’s also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes.
  • Ferulic Acid is an antioxidant. It has been shown to stabilize vitamin c formulations and doubles the photoprotection of said formulations.
  • Panthenol is a humectant alcohol. This ingredient also promotes wound healing.
  • Bisabolol is a soothing agent.
  • Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract is used to condition and soften the skin.
  • Propyl Gallate is an antioxidant. It assists in preserving fats and oils in formulations.
  • Sodium Gluconate neutralizes metal ions in a cosmetic product. This helps to prevent discoloration of the formula over time or rancidity of cosmetic oils. It can also be a pH regulator and a humectant.
  • Sodium Hydroxide is a PH balancer.
  • Phenoxyethanol is a preservative.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin is a skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol.

CLOSING

I purchased my Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster from Paula’s Choice.

I felt that I had great results from this serum and would highly recommend it to anyone who is comfortable with 15% vitamin c concentration. I would be thrilled to repurchase this product.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

**I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Purito Centella Unscented Serum

The Purito Centella Unscented Serum is full of hydrating, nourishing, and barrier repairing ingredients. I had a hard time with this in the beginning, but as I continued to use it and saw the benefit it had on my skin I have now been converted to a believer.

This serum claims to “help soothe the skin and maintain clear skin with a nourishing formula”. I find this statement to be true.

This is now my go to serum when my skin is having a hard time. In general my skin accepts it and absorbs it very well except in the case when my barrier is already compromised. In the case of a compromised barrier (like most products under these circumstances) it stings my skin. This sensation always fades quickly though and I am never left with the pesky red flush.

The serum truly is without scent and is clear in hue.

I have recently taken a trip down the micro current path and find that this works well with my Foreo Bear.

While it did take time for me to decide whether I liked this serum or not it was hard to argue with how good my skin was looking a month into using it. For the simple fact that I see good results I will make a more permanent spot available to the Purito Centella Unscented Serum.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

This serum is my skin rescue product so I bring it out when I feel my skin getting reactive to environmental or product changes. With this in mind when it is in rotation I am using it twice daily.

It is applied directly after my toner (before the skin dries completely).

I use 4 pumps and spread that over my face, neck and chest. If you are only using this on your face then 2 pumps will suffice.

I wait for the product to absorb into the skin before proceeding to the next step as when it is still wet it can feel tacky, but this subsides as it absorbs.

INGREDEINTS

  • Centella Asiatica Extract(49%) is an antioxidant liquid with skin-soothing properties.
  • Water
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent. It also has humectant properties.
  • Dipropylene Glycol is a texture enhancer that has some moisturizing abilities.
  • Niacinamide has the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface. 
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol is a preservative.
  • Glycereth-26 is a humectant emollient.
  • Ceramide NP is a naturally occurring lipid that is one of the major components of the outer layer of the skin.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Asiaticoside is one of the main biologically active components of Centella Asiatica. It has well established wound healing and antioxidant properties.  
  • Asiatic Acid is one of the biologically active components of Centella Asiatica. It probably contributes to the well-established moisturizing and wound healing abilities.
  • Madecassic Acid is one of the biologically active components of Centella Asiatica. It is thought to have wound healing and antioxidant properties.  
  • Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 claims to improve firmness and skin tone.
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen the skin’s underlying supportive elements. It’s categorized as a messenger peptide because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically in regard to visibly fading signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture.
  • Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 works by reducing the production of the signal molecule, inteleukin-6 (IL-6) which promotes inflammation in the skin and less inflammation means slower degradation of important things (like collagen) that results in younger-looking skin for a longer time. 
  • Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10 is believed to trigger some repair to damaged elastin and collagen.
  • Carbomer is a texture enhancer used mainly in gel formulations.
  • Arginine is an amino acid considered to be essential to human development. It has antioxidant properties.
  • Sclerotium Gum is a thickening and gelling agent.
  • Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters function as skin-softening agents.
  • Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient. It has antimicrobial benefits and improves the effect of preservatives.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Panthenol is a humectant alcohol. This ingredient also promotes wound healing.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a gentle cleansing agent that does not leave the skin dry or tight. It’s also used as a co-emulsifier or solubilizer.
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin is an emollient.
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract also known as Green Tea. This is one of my favourite ingredients due to its antioxidant and skin-soothing properties.
  • Pancratium Maritimum Extract is a bleaching agent.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is the salt form of the main anti-inflammatory ingredients of the liquorice plant. It is used for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that prevents certain ingredients from binding with others.
  • Adenosine is a yeast-based skin-conditioning ingredient that has proven anti-wrinkle benefits.

CLOSING

I purchased my Purito Centella Unscented Serum from YesStyle.

Please feel free to use my rewards code to get a little extra off your purchase.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

**I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paul’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Paula’s Choice Calm Repairing Serum

My feelings regarding the Paula’s Choice Calm Repairing Serum remain in line with the rest of the products from this range. They do their job, they are simple and non-irritating, but they simply do not evoke joy in me.

My main reason for purchasing this product was to help with my skin redness. This did nothing for my redness. My guess is that this product serves to calm irritated skin it does not appear to extend its benefits to reactive skin. It did however come in hand when my skin was in fact irritated.

As with all Paula’s Choice Products it is fragrance free and consists of non-offensive ingredients.

The texture is that of a gelish serum and absorbs well into the skin as long as you are not layering too many products.

It is an effective product, it just didn’t help with what I has hoping it would help me with.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I would apply this serum to my face, neck and chest after my toner or after a potent active (such as retinol). I required two pumps for my face and a pump for my neck and chest area.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water
  • Glycerin is skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent. It also has humectant properties.
  • Hyaluronic Acid functions as a superior skin-replenishing ingredient. It has restorative abilities and can boost skin’s moisture content, soothe, and defend against moisture loss.
  • Beta-Glucan is a sugar. It has some antioxidant properties and is a skin-soothing agent. This is ingredient is said to assist with skin redness and sensitivity.
  • Sea Whip Extract is a skin-conditioning agent that is known for its skin-soothing properties.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Ceramide NP is a naturally occurring lipid that is one of the major components of the outer layer of the skin.
  • Ceramide AP is a type of ceramide that can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. Ceramides play an important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. 
  • Ceramide EOP contains the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid and has a unique structure. It is to play a “binding role” in the lipid layers of the extracellular matrix. It also plays a vital role in epidermal integrity and serves as the main storage areas for linoleic acid (a fatty acid that’s also very important for barrier repair).  
  • Cholesterol helps to maintain the skins healthy feel. It is also a water-binding agent.
  • Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is a plant extract with skin-soothing properties and possible benefits for the evening out of skin tone.
  • Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a skin-conditioning ingredient.
  • Phytosphingosine is a complex fatty alcohol that functions as a water-binding agent and also has preservative qualities. This ingredient can also be a skin-restoring ingredient, albeit one that is best for compromised skin.
  • Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids are the salt form of amino acids hydrolyzed from coconut. They are used mainly as a mild surfactant.
  • Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract can be soothing to the skin but is also potentially sensitizing. This particular formulation has had the irritant component removed.
  • Glycine Soja Seed Extract or Soy Extract is a potent antioxidant. Some research has shown it to improve skin tone and provide anti-ageing benefit.
  • Ubiquinone is also known as Q10. It is a vitamin-like, fat-soluble substance naturally present in the body. Applied to the skin, it can have antioxidant benefits
  • Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is used as an emulsifier and mild thickening agent. In higher concentrations, it functions as a surfactant.
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient and skin-conditioning agent.
  • Magnesium Aspartate is a hydrating and skin-softening agent.
  • Potassium Aspartate is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Sarcosine a skin-conditioning and oil-controlling agent.
  • Xanthan Gum is a stabilizer and texture enhancer.
  • Carbomer is a texture enhancer used mainly in gel formulations.
  • Polysorbate 20 is a surfactant (cleansing agent).
  • PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone is an emollient silicone.
  • Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that prevents certain ingredients from binding with others.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin is a skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol.
  • Phenoxyethanol is a preservative.

CLOSING

I purchased my Paula’s Choice Calm Repairing Serum from Paula’s Choice.

I used this serum up, but there are other products that provide me with the same results that I have enjoyed using more. I will not be repurchasing.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

**I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paula’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.

Sur.Medic + Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule

The Sur.Medic + Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule is another lovely product from Neogen Labs.

The ingredients list on this product is extensive, but all the good stuff is high on the list.

It is definitely soothing and my skin just drinks it up. It does not leave any tacky feeling on the skin. The product does have a noticeable scent which can be attributed to the fragrant oils included in the formulation.

I love that this comes in a 80ml dropper bottle (it seems to last forever).

This product has been a lifesaver after my chemical peel. As was to be expected my skin was irritated and this went a long way to soothing the situation.

While I am still on the fence about if peptides actually work in topical application I can 100% attest to the soothing nature of this ampule and for that reason, I would be happy to repurchase it.

MY SKIN TYPE

I have pale combination skin with a very oily t-zone. I suffer from enlarged pores, underlying redness and hyperpigmentation.

At times I can be prone to breakouts, but these days they tend to be more hormonal.

HOW TO USE

I use this serum primarily as part of my evening routine. I rotate this with my retinol routine.

Directly after my hydrating toner has been applied and dispense one full dropper into the palm of my hand and pat into my face, neck and chest area.

I do not mix this peptide serum with any other active ingredients such as Vitamin C, Retinol, AHA’s and BHA’s.

INGREDIENTS

  • Water
  • Dipropylene Glycol is a texture enhancer that has some moisturizing abilities.
  • Isopentyldiol humectant liquid that makes your skin nice and smooth and gives a dry, non-tacky skin feel. It also has a great instant and some longer-lasting moisturizing effect and works in synergy with fellow moisturizer, sorbitol. 
  • 1,2 Hexanediol is a preservative.
  • Polydecene is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Adenosine is a yeast-based skin-conditing ingredient that has proven anti-wrinkle benefits.
  • Guaiazulene (75ppm) is used for its antimicrobial benefits. It is also used as a perfume and a pigment.
  • Copper Tripeptide-1 (30ppb) naturally occurs in certain bodily fluids. It has some wound healing abilities and stimulates the production of several skin-identical ingredients. In addition to this, it also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
  • Tripeptide-1 (1.5ppb) works with copper in the skin to visibly repair substances that have begun to deteriorate due to age and sun exposure. It can help “teach” damaged areas how to rebuild so skin looks and feels smoother and firmer.
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (1.5ppb) can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen the skin’s underlying supportive elements. It’s categorized as a messenger peptide because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better, specifically in regard to visibly fading signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture.
  • Tripeptide-2 (1.5ppb) is another restorative amino-acid complex.
  • Hexapeptide-11 (1.5ppb) is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (1.5ppb) is a moisturizing agent with anti-wrinkle benefits. It claims to have a “Botox-like” effect as it targets wrinkles.
  • Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (1.5ppb) works by reducing the production of the signal molecule, inteleukin-6 (IL-6) which promotes inflammation in the skin and less inflammation means slower degradation of important things (like collagen) that results in younger-looking skin for a longer time. 
  • Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (1.5ppb) can reduce fine lines, wrinkles and improve skin texture significantly
  • Hexapeptide-9 (1.5ppb) is an anti-aging peptide that can visibly reduce the length and depth of wrinkles. However, the studies were performed in a lab and not on humans.
  • Nonapeptide-1 (1.5ppb) is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Ceramide 3 contributes towards a healthy skin-barrier and good skin hydration.
  • Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract is a plant extract with skin-soothing properties and possible benefits for the evening out of skin tone.
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract also known as Green Tea. This is one of my favorite ingredients due to its antioxidant and skin-soothing properties.
  • Camellia Japonica Flower Extract is an emollient.
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract offers benefits such as soothing, antioxidant properties, and hydration.
  • Calendula Officinalis Extract is a skin-repairing and soothing plant extract.
  • Propolis Extract has skin-soothing and antioxidant benefits.
  • Phellinus Linteus Extract is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil has soothing and emollient benefits for the skin.
  • Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is an emollient that has shown to enhance skin’s restorative properties.
  • Cupressus Sempervirens Oil is a masking agent.
  • Zinc Oxide is a mineral sunscreen.
  • Beta-Glucan is a sugar. It has some antioxidant properties and is a skin-soothing agent. This is ingredient is said to assist with skin redness and sensitivity.
  • Asiaticoside is one of the main biologically active components of Centella Asiatica. It has well established wound healing and antioxidant properties.  
  • Madecassic Acid is one of the biologically active components of Centella Asiatica. It is thought to have wound healing and antioxidant properties.  
  • Asiatic Acid is one of the biologically active components of Centella Asiatica. It probably contributes to the well-established moisturizing and wound healing abilities.
  • Madecassoside is one of four principal bioactive compounds in the plant extract Centella Asiatica. Studies also show it can it is non-sensitizing and can help revitalize the skin’s surface.
  • Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is a potent antioxidant with skin-soothing properties. It has shown promise towards the improvement of sun-damaged skin.
  • Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract is a skin-conditioning agent.
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) is a great ingredient for dry skin. It is an antioxidant with smoothing properties.
  • Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil is a highly moisturizing ingredient with some antioxidant properties.
  • Allantoin is a skin-soothing and skin-conditioning agent. This is a good ingredient for both sensitive and oily skin types.
  • Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil is a skin-soothing antioxidant.
  • Panthenol is a humectant alcohol. This ingredient also promotes wound healing.
  • Artemisia Capillarus Extract the research is still out on the exact benefits this has for the skin.
  • Butylene Glycol is a texture enhancer.
  • Octyldodeceth-16 is an emulsifying agent.
  • Carbomer is a texture enhancer used mainly in gel formulations.
  • Tromethamine is a PH balancer.
  • Cellulose Gum is a thickening and film-forming agent.
  • Phenyl Trimethicone is a silicone ingredient that provides a non-oily emolliency to a product.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin is a skin-softening agent also used as a preservative, a carrier, or suspending agent for other preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol.
  • Acacia Senegal Gum is a herb that can have skin-soothing properties but is used primarily as a thickening agent.
  • Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic acid. This salt is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds water to it.
  • Agar is a viscosity controlling agent.
  • Mannitol is a moisturizer and a humectant.
  • Zea Mays (Corn) Starch is a mattifier.
  • Microcrystalline Cellulose has a large variety of uses including being an absorbent, anti-caking agent, bulking agent, and emulsion stabilizer, opacifying agent, stabilizing agent, and viscosity controlling agent.
  • Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that prevents certain ingredients from binding with others.
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin is an emollient.
  • Maltodextrin is an absorbent, binding agent, stabilizer, film-forming agent, and skin-softener.
  • Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring agent. It also has humectant properties.
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient and skin-conditioning agent.
  • Lecithen is an emollient and water-binding ingredient but it’s also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes.
  • Polysorbate 20 is a surfactant (cleansing agent).
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is sodium salt of Vitamin C. It is an antioxidant and brightening agent.
  • Hydrogen Dimethicone is a pigment bonding agent.

INGREDIENTS TO NOTE

  • Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract is a chamomile product. Thus it has skin-soothing benefits. However, it can also be irritating to people with certain plant sensitivities. I have experienced no sensitivity to this ingredient.
  • Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient and can be skin sensitizing. In this formulation, I do not notice any scent and I am not reactive to it.
  • Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract. I could not find much information on this, but based on the fact that it is in the mint family I would assume that it may cause sensitivity in some people.
  • Calamine is an absorbant that has the potential to be sensitizing to the skin.
  • Alcohol Denat is a drying type of alcohol that aggravates and weakens the skin. Typically, if denatured alcohol is listed as the fifth ingredient or higher, it is of considerable risk for sensitizing skin. It does, however, have a place in some formulations where it acts as a delivery agent. I believe this to be true in the case of this product.
  • Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil does have some antimicrobial benefits, but it is also a fragrance ingredient and can be skin sensitizing. In this formulation, I do not notice any scent and I am not reactive to it, but I also would rather not have it included in the formula.
  • Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract is a skin-conditioning antioxidant, but as it is may also be skin sensitizing.

CLOSING

I purchased my Sur.Medic + Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule from YesStyle.

Please feel free to use my rewards code to get a little extra off your purchase.

Visit my skincare page to read more reviews of products I have tried out.

**I source most of the ingredient explanations from Paul’s Choice website, INCI Beauty, Incidecoder, SkinCarisma and CosDNA.

***Please note that these are simply my opinions. Everyone will have skin that responds differently to different ingredients and formulations.